On the north shore of Lake Chapala, just a few kilometers west of Ajijic lies San Juan Cosalá. A fishing village since before the Spanish invaded, San Juan now welcomes tourists from Guadalajara and beyond. Covid-19 has greatly reduced that source of income, leaving many of SJC’s citizens struggling to make ends meet. Yet, wandering through the village one does not sense despair but rather is greeted by scenes of men, women andchildren going about daily routines as if all is well. They are Mexicans, and Mexicans are incredibly resilient in the face of adversity of many kinds. They know how to pull together to accomplish what has to be done. Their sense of community is truly inspiring, especially as they approach one of their most important and unusual celebrations, on November 1 & 2, Day of the Dead.
A stiff morning breeze sends water onto the lakeside walkway Opening for businessNo school, let’s playThe famous Mexican art of the mural is definitely alive in this portrayal of the revered Virgin of GuadalupeInviting aromas from a curbside kitchen Carrying sticks in front of themural in the plazaMass is broadcast to parishioners who stand outsidefor social distancingMaster artist Xilotl, and Maria and Kali are creating large skulls for the Day of the Deadaltar in the plazaThe prototypeMaria painting from a design on her cellphoneNovember 1 is dedicated to the memory of deceased childrenKali, an artist who recently had a show hanging at the Cultural Center in AjijicMore than 10,000 crepe paper flowers were crafted by hand and attached to the altar Colored sawdust carefully laid and awaiting the arrival of the first skullApplying finishing touchesSkulls begin to arrive two at a timeduring the evening of October 31The altar was completed on November 1 but caught fire that evening from one of the candles surrounding the base. More than half the flowers burned but volunteers quickly extinguished the blaze and created and affixed new flowers in time for the festival honoring Teomichinsihutsin, the legendary Spirit of Lake Chapala on November 2 and beloved family members who have passed on. (foto courtesy of The Guadalajara Reporter)The refurbished altar, a beautiful testament to the resilience of the citizens of San Juan Cosalá!
Mexico & Beyond 
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